Apple, Gruyere and Sage Muffins and a Childhood Soup

When autumn and winter come around, I become even more nostalgic (is that even possible?) of certain smells and foods of my childhood. I remember clearly walking around my grandparents' garden puling fresh leeks right off the ground. We would take bunches and bunches home every Sunday. My dad's car smelled of leeks all winter long.



If there is one traditional soup in the Basque Country, it must be porrusalda or leek soup. It is peasant food and the soup all of us grew up eating. Believe it or not, I seem to have been a picky eater as a child. I do not remember much about it, but I often times hear it from my mom. "You despised vegetables", she tells me. Funny how life is. So my mom made sure to puree all soups for me to get me to eat as many vegetables as possible.

I have to admit that texture has stuck with me as I do love creamy and slightly chunky soups. When cooler weather comes around, I eat soup almost every single day.



I made this variation of porrusalda this week when the skies were dark and stormy. We were under a tropical storm warning for two days so we stayed in for the most part. A simple soup with leeks, garlic, potatoes and butternut squash. Slightly sweet so I decided to make some cheesy muffins to go with it.



I keep dreaming of my uncle's apple orchard where we spent so much time this late summer. Apple goodness everywhere. Eating them raw and preparing them in a million different ways.

I thought it would be great to have a savory kind of cake to go with the soup and I love the combination of apples, gruyere and sage. The muffins are moist, sweet and salty at the same time. Serve the soup with a little sour cream, black pepper and olive oil. Perfect comfort food.



Apple, Gruyere and Sage Muffins

makes 6 muffins plus a loaf

1 cup (150 grams) superfine brown rice flour
1/2 cup (75 grams)millet flour
2 Tbs (30 grams) potato starch
2 Tbs (20 grams) tapioca starch
1/3 cup (70 grams) cane sugar
1 tsp (8 grams) baking powder
1/2 tsp (3 grams) baking soda
1/2 tsp (5 grams) salt
1/4 tsp xanthan gum
1 Tbs fresh sage, finely chopped
1 cup (55 grams) shredded Gruyere
1 egg
1 cup (250 ml) buttermilk
1/4 cup (55 ml) olive oil
2 apples, peeled and small diced
Extra shredded Gruyere for topping

In a large bowl, whisk together the first 11 ingredients. In a small bowl, whisk together the egg, buttermilk and olive oil. Add the wet ingredients to the dry and mix until combined. Fold in the diced apples.

Scoop batter into molds. Bake at 400F for 20 minutes for the muffins and 40 minutes for the loaf.

Leek, Butternut Squash and Potato Soup

2 Tbs olive oil
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 cup (1/2 leek), diced
2 cups butternut squash, diced
2 potatoes, diced
1 tsp salt
3 cups chicken stock (or water)
Black pepper
Sour cream, optional

In a medium pot, saute the leeks in the olive oil for about 2 minutes. Do not let them brown. Add the squash and potatoes and saute them for another minute. Add the chicken stock and salt. Bring it to a boil and then reduce heat to medium and cook them covered for about 20 minutes.

Puree the soup and taste it. Adjust seasoning if needed. Serve with cracked black pepper and sour cream.

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Chocolate Hazelnut Mousse and Baked Eggs for a Weekend of Comfort Food

This past weekend was the first time since we came back from our trip that I didn't have to work and I took full advantage of it. Friday I finished shooting a cookbook (no, not mine) and I was looking forward to a relaxing weekend with my family and my kitchen. Books to read, movies to watch and lots of different recipes in my head to try.

Evenings are also turning cooler, letting us know that yes, autumn will soon arrive. It takes time in South Florida, but we wait anxiously.



I wait patiently all year for winter squash season. It is definitely one of my favorite ingredients to cook with and of course to eat. Soups, clafoutis or doughnuts like these are always in my repertoire. So when I walked into Whole Foods and saw the large array of pumpkins and squashes they had, I felt a sudden rush of happiness. The kind that food gives you.

I sliced and roasted the red kuri squash with the seeds and all. Perfectly seasoned, it's the perfect side dish or snack by itself. I used some of it for a creamy soup and the rest for cheesy and creamy baked eggs.



The recipe is an adaptation of Shauna and Danny's baked eggs with taleggio from their new book "Gluten Free Girl and the Chef". I had pre-ordered the book months and months ago and I was so excited when it finally arrived this week. It is beautiful. Mouthwatering recipes, some really simple, some more complex. All highlighted by Lara's gorgeous photography.

I can seriously say I want to cook every single recipe from this book. Smoked salt caramel ice cream, braised balsamic rabbit, crisp pork belly with wild rice, cabbage, sour cherries and honey-sage gastrique... The names alone make my mouth water.



I wanted something simple for our Sunday breakfast, so I made the baked eggs with taleggio and added some roasted red kuri squash, fresh oregano and finished them with a roasted pumpkin seed and apple cider vinaigrette. Delicious.

A book everyone should own, gluten free or not.

And of course, we needed our sinful treat. Chocolate and hazelnut mousse squares. Soft chocolate, hazelnut, banana and teff cake topped with super silky and easy chocolate mousse. These from my own repertoire. The perfect ending to a relaxing weekend.

Chocolate and Hazelnut Biscuit

makes enough for half a sheet pan, but we will only use half of it. i recommend freezing the rest for another time or eating it alone as a snack.

3 eggs
3/4 cup (150 grams) cane sugar
1 cup (280 grams) pureed bananas 9about 3-4 bananas)
1 cup (125 grams) light olive oil
2 tsp vanilla extract
2/3 cup (100 grams) teff flour
1/3 cup (50 grams) sweet rice flour
1/2 cup (50 grams) hazelnut flour
2 Tbs (15 grams) cocoa powder
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp (4 grams) baking soda

In a large bowl, whisk together the teff, sweet rice, hazelnut flours, cocoa powder, salt and baking soda. In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs, sugar, banana puree, oil and vanilla extract. Add the liquids to the dry and whisk until combined.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Pour the batter (will be rather liquid) onto the pan and spread evenly.

Bake at 350F until set about 15-18 minutes. Let it cool completely before making the mousse. We will only need half of it so wrap the other half and freeze it for another time.

Chocolate Mousse

370 grams bittersweet chocolate
370 grams heavy cream, whipped to soft peak

Line a quarter sheet pan with the chocolate and hazelnut cake.

Melt the chocolate over a water bath and let it cool slightly. When cool, add about 3/4 cup of the whipped cream into the chocolate and whisk to lighten it. Then fold the chocolate mixture into the rest of the cream. Fold gently but quickly until all incorporated.

Spread the chocolate mousse over the biscuit and refrigerate until set. Cut into squares and garnish with roasted hazelnuts.

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Mushroom Picking with My Dad, a Risotto and a Story for Finn Air

It was the morning before we were leaving for our vacation, when I received an email from Finn Air asking if I would like to become a contributing food writer, stylist and photographer for them. I was so honored and how could I not. I accepted without even knowing what I would write about, but I was sure I would find the perfect subject since we were going back home for a three week vacation.

I knew a million of food stories and images would await me there.



When we landed in Bilbao, my parents picked us up at the airport. We hauled our bags from the terminal to where my dad had parked his car. We were tired, yet excited to be home. We couldn't stop talking about all the things we wanted to do. Then, my dad opened the trunk of his car and suddenly, it hit me, "I must write about mushroom picking!".

There they were, my dad's old wellies and his wicker basket. The mushroom picking basket.



Mycology and foraging, in general, are a very important part of our food culture. It is something that my grandfather used to love to do and I remember everyone sitting around the dining room table talking about where the best spots were.

Although I have to admit I know very little about mushroom picking, I have always been fascinated by it. Spending time in the wilderness looking carefully and patiently for them, separating the good from the poisonous and enjoying the outdoors. Something so zen about it, no?



The weather had been perfect for new wild mushrooms to grow. It had rained when we first arrived, then temperatures soared. Rain, heat and humidity are essential. Some foliage must also be happening, that is why late summer is always a good time to go.

Early one morning, my dad, my sister in law, the kids and I drove to the nature preserve of Urkiola. It was a beautiful, cool morning. We hiked and let the kids play.

My dad started wandering and I followed silently. there is a lot of silence during these hikes. I found it fascinated how he knew where to look. Almost like a sixth sense about it. Must be years of experience. We also spoke to another hiker who had been there since dawn and had found some gorgeous varieties. That's also another part of all this that I love, the camaraderie and bond that food brings to people.



I asked a million questions and my dad answered them patiently. It was wonderful to spend that time with him. I learned about the different kinds of russulas; gibelurdinak (russula virescens) and urretxak (russula grisea). So coveted.

We cooked a delicious russula and clam risotto with lots of fresh parsley, garlic and a touch of Idiazabal cheese. My brother even came to lunch and we all devoured the entire pot.



You can see more photos and read more about the mushrooms we picked on their website. Hope you like it!

Wild Mushroom and Clam Risotto

1 cup wild mushrooms, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
bunch of fresh parsley, chopped
2 Tbs olive oil
1 cup arborio rice
3 cups chicken stock (might need a bit more)
salt
1/4 cup freshly grated Idiazabal or Parmeggiano cheese

1 lb clams, washed
1 clove garlic, minced
bunch of fresh parsley, chopped
1 Tbs olive oil

In a small pot, bring 3 cups of chicken stock to a boil.

In a large shallow pot, heat 2 Tbs of olive oil. Add the chopped mushrooms and garlic. Season with a pinch of salt. Sautee them for a couple of minutes. Add about 1 Tbs of chopped parsley. Add the rice and stir it with the mushrooms for about a minute or so until the rice starts to stick to the bottom and is well coated with the olive and flavors.

Add a little bit of the hot chicken stock and stir. When all the liquid has been absorbed, add some more stock and keep stirring. Continue like this until rice is cooked al dente and the risotto is creamy. It should take about 15-20 minutes.

In the meantime, wash the clams. Make sure all clams are closed before cooking them. Discard any open one. In a medium saucepan, heat 1 Tbs of olive oil with the minced garlic. Add the clams and the parsley. Cover the pan and let the clams open up. Should only take about 1 minute.

At this point, the risotto should be cooked. Add the clams with all their juices to the risotto and stir thoroughly so all the juice from the clams is incorporated. Add some more freshly chopped parsley and grated cheese, if desired.

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An Easy and Quick Late Summer Lunch

Although we have not had a break from the heat and autumn is far from showing its first signs, I feel excited about the new season and being able to sleep with our windows open. School started and we are now back into a routine (after a week of miserable jet-lag, that is). I like routine, I thrive on it. So I always like to have my meals planned out and my life scheduled around them.

I take after my mom on this one.



September is shaping up to be a very busy month with a couple of time consuming projects one after another. When I'm busy, I try to cook quick and healthful meals. I am completely committed to nutrition and mindful eating now and my body thanks me for it (no vertigo in months!).



I was recently writing about autumn and its bounty and I got hungry for root vegetables. Our farmers market starts in less than a month and I'm excited to see what all the farmers will have to offer. All kinds of carrots, turnips, parsnips, beets.

What is better than a simple plate of olive oil roasted root vegetables with a touch of salt?



When I saw this beautiful bunch of parsley root at Whole Foods, I immediately thought of the wonderful aroma of they would bring to a simple bowl of mashed potatoes. Coconut milk, olive oil, parsley and salt. That's all they needed. And some spicy shrimp with a touch of lime.

For dessert, this quinoa pudding I make often times for breakfast (similar to this). Quinoa cooked with hemp milk, vanilla and just a touch of sugar. Then I cooked some plums en papillote with brown sugar, vanilla bean and lemon thyme leaves and served them over the quinoa. So simple, quick and delicious.



Shrimp with Parsley Root and Potato Mash

Makes enough for 2 people

Bunch of parsley root (6 pieces), peeled and diced
2 medium potatoes, peeled and diced
1 clove garlic
3/4 cup coconut milk
1-2 Tbs olive oil
Parsley, chopped
Salt

8 large shrimp, peeled
red pepper flakes, to taste
salt
2 Tbs olive oil
Lime wedges

In a medium pot, bring water to a boil. Season it with a generous amount of salt. Add the parsley root and cook for about 5 minutes. Then add the potatoes and cook for another 10-15 minutes until both tender. Drain.

In the meantime, grate the garlic into the coconut milk and heat it gently (I do this in the microwave since it's such a small amount).

After draining the potatoes and parsley root, mash them, add the warm coconut milk with the garlic, parsley, salt and add the olive oil. Adjust liquid and season it as needed.

In the meantime, heat 1-2 Tbs of olive oil in a saute pan on medium-low heat. Add the red pepper flakes and infuse the olive oil for a minute. Season the shrimp with salt and cook them in the olive oil for 1 minute on each side.

Serve the shrimp over the parsley root mash with more fresh parsley and lime wedges.

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The Season of Pink Apples and a Cake

We arrived back in Florida this past weekend after having one of the best summers in years. It was one of those times where it seems like the stars were aligned perfectly for us. The weather and the mood were everything I needed to disconnect and then, reconnect once again.



One of the things I was most excited about when we were home were all the apple trees ready to be picked. Anywhere we drove, the roads were lined with trees full of bright pink, red and green apples. From a far, they even sparkle in the sun. So beautiful.

I pointed them out to everyone and it's amazing how people take such things for granted. I did too when I lived there not so long ago. And now, I have a new appreciation for them. I believe photography opens one's eye to little things. Light and details suddenly take another dimension and priority.



I told you about my uncle Javi's garden and how much I love visiting there. We picked kilos of apples, pears and different varieties of plums. I watched my uncle make the most amazing jam with Claudia plums that he later used to fill some sable cookies for the pastry shop.

Early one morning, I called my aunt Agurtzane. “Can I come photograph the sheep today?”. “Of course!”, she replied. They are indeed my favorite subject and in our family any excuse is a good one to set up an impromptu picnic.



We brought the apple and walnut cake I made with the apples we had picked a couple of days before and had some cheese, membrillo, chorizo, jamon and of course some wine. We sat under a large tree and talked for hours. Then put on our wellies and headed down to where the chestnut trees are to look for mushrooms.

My dad and all of my uncles are avid mushroom hunters and pickers. It is almost considered a sport here and it is a tradition that is passed down generation after generation. I cherish the memories of going hiking with my dad looking for mushrooms and I really wanted J. to experience it.



The recipe for this cake comes from my mom. It's her super easy and versatile yogurt and olive oil cake. It literally is one container of yogurt, 2 yogurt containers of sugar, 3 containers of flour... And it works every time. We sauteed some apples in butter and sugar and added some walnuts to the batter. It was a good addition to a perfect mid morning picnic with family.



Apple, Walnut, Yogurt and Olive Oil Cake

makes 1 bundt pan

Note: these measurements are using a 125 ml container of yogurt, which I have found that is the standard size both in Spain and the US. I will refer to the 125 ml container as measure. I really need to give you an exact metric/US measure but in the meantime, I wanted to share this.

1 measure (125ml) plain yogurt
1 measure demerara sugar
1 measure sugar
4 eggs (3 if they are extra-large)
1 measure light olive oil
1 vanilla bean, split and seeded
1 tsp ground cinnamon
3 measures gluten free flour mix or all purpose flour
1/2 tsp xanthan gum if using the gluten free mix
1 Tbs baking powder
pinch salt
handful of chopped walnuts
2 pink apples
2 tsp butter
2-3 Tbs sugar

Butter and flour the inside of a bundt pan.

Slice one of the apples thinly. Heat the butter and 1 Tbs sugar in a pan. Add the slices of apple and cook for a minute on each side. The sugar doesn't have to caramelize. Let the slices cool slightly and then line the bottom of the bundt pan with them, overlapping slightly.

Dice the other apples and cook them in the remaining butter and sugar. Let them cool.

In a bowl, whisk together the gluten free flour mix, xanthan gum, baking powder and salt. In a separate bowl, whisk together the yogurt, sugars, eggs, olive oil, vanilla seeds and cinnamon. Add the liquids to the dry ingredients and mix. Fold in the chopped walnuts and sauteed apples.

Pour batter into pan and bake in a 350F (180C) oven for about 30 minutes or until done (depending on the size of the pan)

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Family Business

I'm not sure if I have ever shared photos of my family's pastry shop here before. It is the one place that truly defines my childhood and I love visiting every time I come home.

My grandparents opened it in 1949 and my uncles and cousins run it today. Every year, it closes for the entire month of August, something that it is almost inconceivable in the US, but it's been a tradition that locals respect and endure. So here are some photos from the re-opening day. Making me drool.



I am getting ready for my cousin's wedding this evening where there will be lots of food and wine. It will be our last hooray here as we fly back home this Sunday. I will certainly miss it.

Also, here is a little feature about me that was on CNN's Eatocracy this week. See you soon!

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