11.29.2011

Cranberry and citrus sorbet and its fruit salad



"I need a fruit salad", I thought to myself as soon as I got off the plane after an entire day of traveling. We had just come out of a six-day eating binge while visiting C's family in Montana. Wild game, hearty potatoes from the garden, goat cheese straight from the farm, and too much chocolate from The Parrot left me thirsty for something sour and light. I suppose my body was asking me to be kind to myself for the next few days.

I crawled into bed that night dreaming about the refreshing fruit salad I was going to make myself the following day.



I remembered how much I enjoyed this apple and grapefruit salad exactly two years ago. I remember clearly as I had just given birth to Miren and I had this intense craving for sour apples and citrus.

I needed something stringent.

I made a version of that salad with crispy asian pears, sour lady apples and grapefruit garnishes with micro mint leaves and cranberry sorbet. It works for me. In fact, I am thinking about serving it as a small pre-dessert for our Christmas Eve dinner.



As for our Thanksgiving, it was beautiful. Family gathered around the fire, wide open spaces, and trees covered in snow. Raw beauty I was also craving.

I shall share photos and stories soon.

I cannot wait, in fact.



Cranberry and citrus sorbet

3 cups (12 ounces or 340 g) fresh or frozen cranberries, washed
2 cups (500 ml) water
1 1/4 cup (250 g) superfine or caster sugar
1/4 cup (60 ml) freshly squeezed orange juice
1/4 cup (60 ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice
3 strips of orange peel (make sure there is no white pit)
1/4 teaspoon sea salt


Combine all ingredients in a medium saucepan and cook over medium high heat until the cranberries are soft, about 15 minutes. Remove the orange peel. Transfer the mixture to a blender and puree it. Strain the mixture through a sieve and let it cool completely.

Transfer to the refrigerator and chill thoroughly for 2 to 4 hours. Churn in the ice cream machine according to manufacturer's instructions. Freeze the sorbet until hard.

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11.21.2011

Forelle pear, chocolate, and pistachio tartlets



We are away.

In a place that feels so far from our everyday lives.

We are here with family, gearing up for a Thanksgiving feast, in which the menu has yet to be finalized. And this is all fine because we are comfortable - sitting around the fire telling stories.



I made these tartlets last week while my parents were still visiting. Miren had just woken up from a nap and my dad was holding her in his arms. "Aititegaz, aititegaz" he whispered ("you are with grandpa, you are with grandpa").

The sweetest thing I have ever witnessed.

The tarts were delicious, especially because they took no time to make as I had leftover chocolate and hazelnut tart dough in the freezer. I tend to say that a lot here, don't I? That I have leftover dough of this and scraps of that. But it is so true. While I am recipe testing, ingredients and scraps accumulate exponentially. A good problem to have, I suppose.



So if you are still thinking about Thanksgiving desserts and have not made up your mind yet, here is a recipe you could try. A light pear and pistachio custard baked in a chocolate and hazelnut tart crust.

And if you have all ready for the big dinner, what dessert are you preparing?

In any case, I wanted to wish you a happy Thanksgiving. Cook and eat lots, enjoy your company, and share.



Chocolate, Pear, and Pistachio Tarts

Makes six (4-inch) tartlets

Chocolate Hazelnut Crust

4 ounces (110 g) unsalted butter, room temperature
1/3 cup (70 g) natural cane sugar
1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and seeds scraped
1 egg
3/4 cup (105 g) superfine brown rice flour
1/4 cup (35 g) buckwheat flour
1/4 cup (25 g) hazelnut flour
3 tablespoons tapioca starch
3 tablespoons Dutch-process cocoa powder
1/4 teaspoon salt


In the bowl of a stand mixer, mix the butter, sugar, and vanilla seeds with the paddle attachment on medium speed until light, about 2 minutes. Add the egg and mix until combined.

In a small bowl, whisk together all the dry ingredients. Add them to the butter mixture and mix until the dough comes together. Turn it onto your work surface and form it into a disk. Wrap it in plastic wrap and chill for 1 hour.

Remove the dough from the refrigerator. Dust your work surface with a little bit of superfine brown rice flour. Place the dough on top and, with a rolling pin, roll it to 1/8 inch thickness. Make sure to keep turning the dough while rolling to ensure it does not stick to the surface. If it cracks, pinch it back together.

Cut circles and fill the tart molds with the dough. Chill the dough for 20 minutes while preparing the filling.

Pear and Pistachio Filling

6 Forelle pears, peeled, cored and sliced
2 eggs
2 tablespoons good-quality honey
2 tablespoons pistachio meal
1/2 cup (125 ml) unsweetened coconut milk
Zest of 1 lemon, finely grated


Preheat oven to 375F (190C). Arrange the sliced pears over the chocolate crust.

In a bowl, whisk together the remaining ingredients and pour over the pears. Bake the tarts for 30-35 minutes until golden.

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11.15.2011

Planning for Thanksgiving with a squash and Idiazabal soufflé



I am always fascinated by family dynamics and traditions that are passed down from one generation to another - particularly in the kitchen. It is probably one of the first things that I ask people as I get to know them. I ask for many details too.

"What are the smells that you remember from your childhood? And who was in charge of the menu planning?"

I am fascinated by it all.

Mostly because in my own life food memories are such a driving force and source of inspiration. My tie to my family far away and my grandparents who passed.



As you might imagine, I didn't grow up celebrating Thanksgiving, but it has now become one of my favorite holidays. The chance to gather with family and friends to be thankful for all the positive we have in our lives. Such a strong moment and with so much significance if we really stop and think about it.

Something we should actually do everyday, shouldn't we?

Every now and then, I stop to think about what traditions C. and I are creating for our family now - a mixed bag of American classics with my Basque sensibility. "What will our family gatherings be in 20 years?" I ask him. It is fun to think like that sometimes - all of which is shaped by how we interact in this moment.



"I think we should go visit your family this year. I need some snow" I said to C a few weeks ago.

Shortly after, he booked tickets for us to travel to Montana. Did I say how much I love Montana? I do. Very much.

I am excited for Jon and Miren to play in the snow, for vast open spaces, to visit a farm or two, and to sit by a fire sharing old family stories. And although I probably won't be in charge of the menu, I certainly plan to make a dish or two - and if they let me, dessert too.



I thought of the Thanksgiving inspiration board that I put together for Cooking Channel's countdown to Thanksgiving. Always inspired by the season's produce - winter squash, apples, pears, chestnuts, leeks, or fennel. All of them will be in our cooking.

"What will you be making this year?" my mom asked. "I don't know" I said to her, "but I am beginning by testing this squash, Idiazabal, and herb soufflé".



A bechamel-based soufflé with roasted kabocha squash, Idiazabal cheese, and lots of herbs and a touch of cumin - such a creamy interior. I think it will make a great side dish.

I also tried a dairy free version omitting the cheese and using substituting olive oil and coconut milk for the butter and whole milk. It worked great.

There will also be salad, soup, and a tart - I anticipate an apple tart. After all, C's uncle Loren will be driving all the way from Wenatchee, Washington. There will be lots of apples.

And I could not be happier indeed.



And so tell me, if you celebrate Thanksgiving, when do you begin planning and where does your inspiration come from?

I'm intrigued.


Kabocha squash, Idiazabal, and herb soufflé

Serves 6

1 small kabocha squash, halved, seeded, peeled, and cut into 1-inch wedges
2 cloves garlic, peeled and lightly crushed
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons soft unsalted butter, plus more for ramekins
1/3 cup (20 g) gluten-free breadcrumbs
1 cup (250 ml) whole milk
3 tablespoons (45 g) sweet rice flour
3 ounces (90 g) Idiazabal, grated
3 tablespoons finely chopped herbs (parsley, sage, thyme, chives)
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
4 eggs, separated



Preheat oven to 400F (200C).

In a baking pan, toss the squash wedges and garlic together with the olive oil and 1/4 teaspoon of salt. Bake for 30 minutes or until the squash is soft and slightly caramelized. Transfer the roasted squash to a food processor and puree. Measure 1 cup (225 g) of puree and set aside.

Brush the ramekins with soft butter. Coat the inside of the ramekins with the breadcrumbs. Set aside.

In a small pot, heat the milk over medium heat until it reaches a light simmer.

In a separate medium pot, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the sweet rice flour and whisk together for 1 minute. Add the warm milk and whisk until it comes together and thickens. Transfer this mixture to a medium bowl. Add the pureed squash, Idiazabal and the herbs and whisk together until the cheese is melted. Add the egg yolks, cumin, black pepper, and 1/4 teaspoon salt and whisk quickly.

In a separate bowl whip the egg whites until foamy and soft peaks form. Fold a third of the whipped egg whites into the squash mixture and mix until thoroughly combined. Add the rest of the egg whites and gently fold to keep as much of the air in. Spoon the mixture into the ramekins. Fill 3/4 of the way up.

Bake for 12-14 minutes until they have risen and top turns golden brown. Serve immediately.

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11.09.2011

Steamed clams with truffled lady apple and sunchoke cream and a beet galette



It's a great thing when I can sneak in a quick trip to New York City. Despite the hustle and bustle, I feel a sense of ease and calmness there. Funny thing.

I arrived early Wednesday morning and although I knew it was going to be a day full of book meetings, I had two things on my agenda that morning; a quick stop at the Union Square farmer's market and a little shopping next-door at ABC Home.



"I want to see all your apples!" I told the young girl at the stand. Can I tell you that every time I see a young farmer or anyone involved in supporting local agriculture makes me want to pack up my things and move to the country?

Every single time.

She told me about all the varieties on display and I bought several to snack on during my trip and some to bring back home. These lady apples and Babycakes cookies is what I brought back home for my family. The cookies were gone in a matter of minutes and the lady apples soon followed.



Lady apples are crisp and tart. I love to eat them as they are, added to fruit salads like this or paired with a creamy dessert like this one.

"We should make a creamy soup with the apples and sunchokes we got at the farmers' market" I suggested to my mom. "Yes, and we should add some truffle oil too!"

Sunchokes are another root vegetable that we enjoy in soups. Earthy, but not overpowering, they are great with a little drizzle of truffle oil. Even after roasted with a touch of sea salt.

Delicious.

"And you know what else? We could add some clams on top!" I thought. I love this dynamic of creating dishes from ideas we bounce back and forth from each other.



It was early Saturday morning and the air was crisp. We had the windows open all day, which is a true luxury here in South Florida. No plans for the day. Simply cook some soup, take a walk, and if lucky, sneak in a nap.

"Making soup with the windows open. It doesn't get much better than this" I said. Everyone agreed.

While the soup was simmering, I rolled out some hazelnut tart dough for a quick caramelized onion and golden beet galette. Steamed clams with truffled apple and sunchoke cream and a slice of galette was our menu for the day.

Not bad, right?



That afternoon we played outside. Jon and my dad rode their bikes around the neighborhood, while the rest of us stayed home. C. read to Miren. "More, more" she repeated.

He read it over and over again.

Meanwhile, I made one of the best gluten and dairy free chocolate puddings I have ever made, served with sauteed apples and raspberries. Everyone raved about it. It deserves its own post - that's how good it is.



Lady Apple, Sunchoke, and Leek Cream with Steamed Herb Clams

Serves 4 to 6

3 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium leek, sliced
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 medium russet potato, peeled and diced
8 ounces (225 g) small lady apples or 1 large Gala apple, peeled, cored and diced
8 ounces (225 g) sunchokes, peeled and diced
2 cups (500 ml) chicken stock
4 sprigs fresh thyme
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon ground coriander
1 cup (250 ml) unsweetened coconut milk
16 Little Neck clams, washed
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
Truffle oil, optional


In a medium pot, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat. Add the leeks and cook for 5 minutes until soft. Add 2 cloves of garlic and cook for 1 minute while stirring. Add the potato, lady apples, sunchokes, chicken stock, 2 sprigs of thyme, salt, and coriander. Bring liquid to a boil, cover the pot, lower heat to medium low, and cook for 15 minutes. Add the coconut milk and puree the soup. Adjust seasoning.

In a separate pot, heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add the clams, 1 sprig of thyme, and parsley. Cover the pot and cook for about 5 minutes or until clams open completely. Discard any clams that remain closed after cooking.

Ladle the soup into a bowl. Drizzle with truffle oil and top with steamed clams. Garnish with fresh herbs. Serve immediately.


Beet and Caramelized Onion Galette

Serves 4

1 recipe for savory tart dough (mine has hazelnuts in it)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 medium onion, thinly sliced
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper
3 medium golden beets, peeled and thinly sliced (with a mandoline)
Fresh thyme leaves
Beet greens, optional


Preheat oven to 400F (200C).

In a medium saute pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onions, salt, and black pepper. Cook until soft and slightly caramelized, about 8 minutes. Let the onions cool completely.

Roll the tart dough into a disk that is 1/8-inch thick. Place on a sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Spread the cooled caramelized onions on the dough and top with the thinly sliced beets leaving a 2-inch border on the sides. Fold the dough over the beets. Gently tuck in the edges and pinch any cracked parts.

Chill the galette for 15 minutes. Top with fresh thyme and bake for 30 minutes or until golden brown. Serve topped with beet greens.

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11.08.2011

Making soup with the windows open



I am in a soup making frenzy these days fueled by the crisp air and autumn light. We make a large pot early in the morning, which lasts a couple of days. Squash and leek soup or lentils with root vegetables are some of our weekly staples, but there others we love and new ones to experiment with.

Living in a subtropical climate, it is not often we get to open all of our windows to let fresh, crisp air in. When it finally happens, my outlook completely changes. I can feel it. And then I want to cook soup, lots of it.

This weekend I cooked a lady apple, leek, and sunchoke cream that we ate with steamed clams. I will share this soon.

In the meantime, I leave you with lady apples. They exemplify what I love about this season.

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11.04.2011

My food styling and photography workshop at Muses & Visionaries



My friends Lena Hyde and Erin Rossitto are the creative minds behind Muses & Visionaries, a studio in downtown West Palm Beach where women can create, support, make and inspire other women. It's a beautiful space full of eclectic art, natural light and color.

I am so excited to tell you that I will be teaching a mini food styling and photography workshop next Friday, November 11th from 10:30am to 1pm. I will discuss my creative process from selecting ingredients, cooking, styling to photographing in natural light. We only have 5 spots open. If you would like to register, email Erin at erin@musesandvisionaries.com.

Hope to see you there!

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11.02.2011

Melissa Clark's butternut squash risotto with pistachios and lemon



I have chronicled my love for risotto and all things rice (particularly dessert) many times in this blog. As a child, arroz con almejas was my favorite dish. Short grain rice cooked with garlic, parsley and clams. To this day when I go back to my parents' home, I ask my mom to cook it for me.

When Melissa Clark's new book "Cook This Now: 120 Easy and Delectable Dishes You Can't Wait to Make" arrived, I was instantly drawn to the butternut squash risotto with pistachios and lemons. Aromas of leek, garlic, rosemary and butternut squash in my kitchen was what I needed on that rainy Sunday morning.



Jon carefully grated the lemon zest while I stirred the thickening rice. "Is it ready yet?" he asked anxiously. He was proud to be adding the finishing touches to our lunch. Meanwhile, Miren sat on the counter nibbling on the chopped pistachios and grated Parmesan. It was one of those days.

The risotto was gone in a matter of minutes. That's how good it was. Fragrant, creamy, woodsy and fresh.



As the title suggests, Melissa's book contains 120 recipes, both savory and sweet, organized by month and season. Just like I like to eat. My next recipe? Winter salad with fennel, radicchio, walnuts and Manchego. It has my name written all over it.



And for the muffins? Well, what I can say. We always have muffins in the house.

There was leftover butternut squash that I steamed and mashed (I like to keep leftovers in the freezer for last minute cakes). This time gluten and dairy free butternut squash, apple and hazelnut muffins with quinoa, coconut milk, coconut oil, hazelnuts and all kind of goodness.

They were perfect for our Halloween breakfast the next day.



And speaking of risotto... during this summer's trip to the Basque Country, I paid a visit to my friend David de Jorge whose cooking show "Robin Food" is immensely inspiring, laid back and fun. Always full of great ideas and clever humor.

I was invited back to cook an autumn-inspired lunch of clam and wild mushroom risotto followed by a gluten free plum, red currant and quinoa galette. The show finally aired yesterday and you can watch it here (In Spanish).

Eskerrik asko David!

Butternut Squash Risotto with Pistachios and Lemon

from Melissa Clark's "Cook This Now: 120 Easy and Delectable Dishes You Can't Wait to Make"

1/2 pound peeled butternut squash
about 6 cups chicken or vegetable stock
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 medium leek, thinly sliced
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
2 cups arborio rice
2 rosemary branches
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
1/3 cup dry white wine
finely grated zest of 1 lemon
1/2 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice, plus more to taste
freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/4 cup chopped salted pistachios
grated Parmesan cheese


In a food processor fitted with a fine grating attachment, shred the squash.

In a small saucepan, bring the stock to a simmer. Melt the butter in large skillet over medium heat. Add the leeks and cook, stirring them occasionally, until they are soft, about 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook it until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the rice, squash, rosermary, and salt. Stir until most of the grains of rice appear semi-translucent, 3 to 4 minutes. This means they have absorbed some of he fat from the pan, which will help keep the grains separate from each other as they form their creamy sauce.

Pour the wine into the pan and let it cook off for about 2 minutes. Add a ladleful of stock (about 1/2 cup) and cook, stirring it constantly and making sure to scrape around the sides, until most of the liquid has evaporated. Continue adding stock, a ladleful at a time, and stirring almost constantly, until the risotto has turned creamy and thick, and the grains of rice are tender with a bit of bite, about 25 to 30 minutes. Pluck out the rosemary branch and stir in the lemon zest, lemon juice, and black pepper. Taste and add more salt and lemon juice if needed. Garnish with the pistachios and optional cheese before serving.


Butternut Squash, Apple and Hazelnut Muffins

makes 15 muffins

1/2 small butternut squash puree, peeled, seeded and diced
3 eggs
1/2 cup (100g) light brown sugar
1/4 cup (50 g) natural cane sugar
1/3 cup (80 ml) unsweetened coconut milk
1/3 cup (80 ml) coconut oil
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 cup (70 g) superfine brown rice flour
1/2 cup (70 g) quinoa flour
1/3 cup (45 g) hazelnut meal
3 tablespoons (20 g) tapioca starch
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 Gala apple, peeled and diced into 1/8-inch pieces
1 ounce (30 g) chopped hazelnuts


Preheat oven to 350F (180C).

Steam the diced squash until tender, about 10 minutes. Puree it in the food processor and measure 1/2 cup (115 g). Reserve the rest for another use.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the butternut squash puree, eggs, light brown sugar, natural cane sugar, coconut milk, coconut oil and vanilla extract.

In a separate large bowl, whisk together the superfine brown rice flour, quinoa flour, hazelnut meal, tapioca starch, salt, baking soda and cinnamon. Pour the wet ingredients over the dry and whisk to combine. Fold in the diced apples and hazelnuts.

Pour the batter into the muffin molds or baking cups and bake for 18 to 20 minutes. Let them cool for a few minutes before serving. They will keep in the refrigerator for up to 3 days or in the freezer for up to 1 month.

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