Stèphane Glacier’s Delice D’Ete

I bought pastry chef Stèphane Glacier’s latest book a couple of months ago and I am fascinated with all the amazing verrines and petits gateaux that are featured in it. This gateau, with pistachio joconde layers soaked with lemon simple syrup, jellyfied raspberry coulis and vanilla bavarian cream, holds true to its name, Delice D’Ete (Summer Treat). Light, spongy and perfect for the season.

Although the recipes I used for the different gateau components are all from my archives, this cake was inspired by chef Glacier, which brings up a question that always roams around in my head… What makes a chef own a recipe? We all borrow ideas from others, so when can we call a recipe our own?

In this case, although the recipes are mine, the idea, look and combination of flavors are chef Glacier’s, so would you say this cake is mine or his? It’s hard to claim ownership of recipes sometimes. In this case, it is clear that all credit should go to him. Composition, combination, styling… They are all his.

Pistachio Joconde

105 grams almond flour
105 grams raw pistachios
150 grams powdered sugar
50 grams all purpose flour
250 grams eggs
185 grams egg whites
75 grams sugar
35 grams butter, melted and cooled

In a food processor, finely chop the pistachios. Add the powdered sugar and almond flour and process until a fine meal forms. Place this mixture in a bowl of an electric mixer and add the all purpose flour and the whole eggs to it. With a whip attachment, whip this mixture until a thick ribbon forms, about 5 minutes. Transfer this mixture to a large bowl and wash the electric mixer bowl and whip attachment.

Place the egg whites in the bowl of the electric mixer and whip until a light meringue starts to form. Slowly, sprinkle in the sugar and whip until semi-stiff peaks form.

Mix a third of the meringue into the first mixture. Add the rest of the meringue and fold gently. Add the melted butter and fold until it is all incorporated.

Divide this batter into two half sheetpans and spread the batter into an even layer so when the cake bakes, it is even. Bake at 375 degrees for about 12 minutes or until it starts to form a light color on top. We don’t want it to be too dark. Cool the cakes and store in the refrigerator or freezer until ready to assemble the cake.

Lemon Simple Syrup

100 grams sugar
100 grams water
Zest of half a lemon

Place all ingredients in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Turn the heat off as soon as sugar has dissolved. Cool.

Jellyfied Raspberry Coulis

800 grams raspberry puree
160 grams sugar
7 gelatin sheets

Place the raspberry puree and the sugar in a saucepan. Bring to a boil. In the meantime, soften the gelatin in ice water. When the puree comes to a boil, turn the heat off and add the gelatin to it. Whisk so it dissolves evenly.

Pour this coulis into two flat sheetpans and freeze until they are solid.

Vanilla Bean Bavarian Cream

500 grams half and half
1 vanilla bean, scraped and seeded
125 grams sugar
120 grams yolks
7 gelatin sheets
500 grams heavy cream, soft peaks

In a medim saucepan, place the half and half, the vanilla bean and half of the sugar and bring to a boil. In the meantime, whisk the yolks and the other half of the sugar in a bowl. Also, start softening the gelatin in ice water. When the half and half comes to a boil, temper into the yolks and whisk. Add this custard back to the pan and cook until it slightly thicken and coats the back of the spoon (about 84C).

Strain this custard through a fine sieve into a clean bowl. Add the softened gelatin to it and whisk. Place this bowl over an ice bath so it cools faster. When it’s cool to the touch, add the whipped cream and fold gently until it is all incorporated.

Once the bavarian is made, the cake must be built so have all your other components ready.

Assemble the Gateau

I used a square frame to build the gateau. The frame is about 14 x 14 x 2 inches.

First, remove the parchment paper from the bottom of the joconde. Do so by inverting the cake onto your work surface and peel off the paper gently, pressing the cake down as you peel the paper off. Then cut the joconde to fit the square frame. Also cut the gelified raspberry coulis to fit the frame.

Place the square frame on top of a half sheetpan lined with parchment. Place the first sheet of joconde in the frame. Soak it with the lemon simple syrup. Pour some of the bavarian cream on top and spread evenly with an offset spatula. Place the first sheet of frozen gelified coulis on top and gently press down. Pour a very thin layer of bavarian on top and spread evenly. Place the second sheet of joconde on top. Brush with simple syrup. Pour another very thin layer of bavarian on top and spread evenly. Place the second sheet of frozen coulis and finish with the bavarian cream all the way to the top. Flatten the top with your offset spatula. Freeze the entire cake.

When ready to serve, remove the cake from freezer and let it thaw out a bit before cutting it. Glaze the top with a neutral glaze and serve with berries.

I think the best part about building a cake like this are the scraps, don’t you think?


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63 Responses to “Stèphane Glacier’s Delice D’Ete”

  1. marion says:

    lovely !!!! just so lovely :)
    Stephane Glacier is very well known in France and his books are best sellers.
    I hope you’re going to cook other sweet things from there and show us ;)

  2. Y says:

    Oh yes, the scraps.. heavenly! :)

  3. Tartelette says:

    You know what I am going to say about this: one cannot reinvent the pastry wheel all the time, but we can all improve and contribute to it! I love the contrast of colors!

  4. carri says:

    absolutely stunning…Aran, to accomplish this with a small child in the house no less, you are a wonder! I’ll bet Mr. Glacier never once made that dessert with a 2 year old underfoot!

  5. Peabody says:

    So beautiful, you made such perfect layers. Oh how I wish my husband would not freak out on me for buying a cookbook that is more than $100. Sigh.

  6. Aun mismo antes de leer tu ultima frase ya mis ojos estaban en los scraps! Es de echo lo mejor de hacerse una tarta en capas y lo que hace que los pasteleros siempre tengan muchos amigos en las cocinas! Jejeje! Es un buen punto ese de la paternidad de las recetas, además con la polemica esa que se ve por todos los lados de la Cooks Country… Las recetas son solo recetas, la manera como las haces es que hace que sean TUS recetas. Casi como si compras una camiseta en Zara, antes de comprarla es de la tienda, pero cuando la vistes tu ya es TU camiseta. Bueno me lie un poco entre tartas y camisetas pero bueno, jejeje! Un besito!

  7. nadia says:

    This is stunning Aran! The colors and flavors look and sound delicious…….. I can’t stop looking at it.

  8. cookemila says:

    me ha encantado..me apasionan las tartas en capas, los pastelitos en capas..las capas en capas…y el libro deberia autoregalarmelo..pero mientras lo pienso o no to be or no to be….con tus fotos y tus recetas me conformo…creo que esta la voy a hacer varias veces y admite muchas posibilidadess

  9. ooo gorgeous, have book marked the recipe for the Bavarian cream aswell YUM!

  10. Mobula says:

    Pues ya ni se que decirte… Delicioso, sublime, espectacular, impresionante, maravilloso, épico…

    Que se quiten Torreblanca, Oriol, Mampel, Adriá y que te pongan a ti!!!!

    No puedo despegar la vista de la pantalla y tengo unas ganas de hincarle un diente… tengo que buscar un billete baratito para Florida ya mismo….

    En cuanto a la autoría de las recetas… hace unos mese le preguntaron en una fiesta a una de las infantas de quién era el vestido que llevaba y respondión que era suyo y Galliano (EL DISEÑADOR DEL VESTIDO Y DE DIOR) estaba delante!!!! Asi que esta receta, mi querida Aran …ES TUYA!!!!!!

  11. morgana says:

    Esto es como una top model de los postres… ¡¡¡ qué belleza !!!

    A las alturas de la civilización a las que estamos, el torrente de información, fotos, y recetas disponibles es tal que es dificilísimo saber de quién surgió la idea original de cada cosa. Para más complicación, a veces parece como si las mentes estuvieran conectadas en algún nivel, de forma que una misa idea puede surgir en distintos puntos casi al mismo tiempo.

    Por otro lado ¿Queda algo que inventar? Porque puestos a ser puntillosos… para pasteles a capas los que hacen en Malasia.

    Para mí, si tú haces la receta a tu estilo (como es el caso), con tu toque personal, tu combinación de sabores y colores y tu decoración, la receta es tuya aunque la inspiración te haya venido de otro lado.

    Es lo divertido de la cocina, que una foto te puede probocar un montón de ideas pero no todo el mundo es capaz de llevarlas luego a cabo con dignidad y tú en este caso te has llevado una Matrícula de Honor de las de verdad. Sea como sea ésta es TU creación y tiene una pinta gloriosa.

  12. nicisme says:

    Ahhh, so beautiful!
    The bit about the scraps made me chuckle – I would end up with mostly scraps and a teeny tiny cake in trying to cut it so perfectly!!

  13. pea & pear says:

    Perfection as always!!! I only wish there were more hours in the day to make all of your recipes! Well done Aran :)

  14. Madam Chow says:

    This looks marvelous, and the colors are tremendous!

  15. This “Summer Treat” is so gorgeous, I’m not sure I could bring myself to actually eat it! It’s a feast for the eye and I’m sure for the mouth too!

  16. Christy says:

    Aran, if all my attempts at layered gateaux turned out as beautiful as yours, I think I’ll definitely make more of them!!

    A good slice of layered cake is just about my favourite thing to eat every morning. Yes, for breakfast. With a strong cup of tea. But before that, I have to figure out a way to make my layers as even and perfect as yours.

    Btw, what kind of gelatine sheets did you use, gold or titanium grade? I usually go by the weight of each sheet when I work with gelatine just because there are a number of varieties available. Thanks Aran!

  17. Aran says:

    Hi Christy- yes, you are right, I should specify what kind of gelatin I use. They are gold sheets so about 2 or 2.5 grams per sheet. Hope that helps!

  18. Sil BsAs says:

    No seré nada original diciéndote que las fotos son espectaculares, pero es la pura verdad!!
    Me gustaria saber si es que hay un secreto para que las capas salgan TAN parejas… medir la cantidad de crema que pones quizas?
    Excelente,una combinacion muy apetitosa!

  19. Aran says:

    sil bsas- la verdad es que yo no mido la crema generalmente porque ya tengo buen ojo para esas cosas pero para ser super precisos, conviene medirla. Esa seria la mejor forma. mil gracias por tus palabras.

  20. Oh how I wish you had a bakery/pastry shop somewhere close to me. I would love to have this for breakfast this morning.

  21. CFF says:

    When you soak the cake, do you use all of the simple syrup? Thanks! This is just gorgeous (as I think we’ve all come to expect — your work is just delightful!)…

  22. Mandy says:

    beautiful color and tantalising flavor combination! I love all the elements in this cake, Aran.

  23. cindy* says:

    pretty aran! though the flavors really do say summer, my initial thoughts when seeing the photos went toward christmas. perfection.

  24. Jill says:

    This one is right up my alley. You know I will never make this, even if it was gluten and dairy free, but I could almost taste it just by looking at these crazy good pictures. Love these flavor combos!!

  25. Virginia says:

    ¡Dios mío, qué buena pinta! Nunca he sentido tanto no saber inglés (el traductor de google dice cada tontería…) Resignada a quedar embelasada mirando las fotografías, imaginando cómo sabrá cada capa de color, y cómo todas juntas…

  26. Aran says:

    Thanks everyone…

    CFF- i didn’t use all of it this time because the joconde was moist because all the humidity in the air. I save it in the fridge for next time or even to make drinks like mojitos!!

  27. Christina says:

    Absolutely gorgeous! I’m putting this on my list of things to make.

  28. The layers are gorgeous! The look is perfection!

  29. Vera says:

    Aran, it’s stunning! Absolutely beautiful!

  30. German writer and thinker Brecht once wrote that originality is the ability to conceal your sources. While that certainly isn’t the attitude I have as a published author and writer, it is still true that when you write recipes you are constantly revising and adapting on the already established.

    Interestingly, I’ve been told that you can’t copy write an ingredient list so the only thing that is truly ‘ownable’ about a recipe is the method.

    For me, if I haven’t made at least three significant changes to a recipe I’ve tried, then I don’t consider it mine.

  31. Alexa says:

    Aran,
    We all leave our fingerprints on the recipes we tweak, that’s what keeps the culinary arts so interesting. No doubt your unique touch is all over this amazing looking dessert. It must taste so delicate and feathery light. Those pictures are simply stunning.

  32. Tanya says:

    Good Lord, you are truly an artist. This is beautiful!

  33. gkbloodsugar says:

    Stunning! That’s real talent.

    Pisatachios almost always guarantee success in my book.

  34. Hillary says:

    What beautiful layers! I need a tutorial. :)

  35. I’m having opera cake flashbacks. I wish mine looked this good!

  36. corine says:

    Beautiful doesn’t even begin to describe this.

  37. Ann says:

    Your work is so stunning, just gorgeous.

  38. wowsa. I think that’s better looking than anything I saw in any patiserrie window in Paris, and I went window shopping for a year! bravo!

  39. PheMom says:

    Truly gorgeous and so vibrant! It may be his recipe, but you still had to make it!

  40. giz says:

    I feel like I just stopped into a Daring Bakers site – oh my goodness – please don’t tell me you just whipped this together for a mid week dessert or I’ll have to cry. Just gorgeous

  41. Gina says:

    This is stunningly beautiful! Just beautiful!!

  42. veron says:

    This is gorgeous, Aran! I have his book on macarons…he also teaches at the French Pastry school in Chicago sometimes.

  43. C.L. says:

    just so beautiful! How do you find the time to do such stunning work??? You kill me!!

  44. Maya says:

    ma sure the flavours are as amazing as they look!

  45. Who could possibly resist this stunning dessert? Your joconde looks perfect and the combination of flavors is interesting.

    You are always producing the very best work. Thank you for always taking on the big projects!

  46. Mrs.French says:

    I would say it is a delightful collaboration…stunning my friend.

  47. Camille says:

    Visual perfection and I’m sure it is perfectly delicious! Wow!

  48. miri says:

    Aran, I love everything you prepare and the perfect touch you leave on everything. This cake is true art!

  49. Aimée says:

    I’ve eaten a lot of desserts in my life, but I am trying to think if I have set a fork to anything as pretty as this. This dessert is five star!
    WISH I could taste it.

  50. Zoe Francois says:

    I’m so excited to get that book. A pastry book I don’t already own is cause to celebrate. Gorgeous as always!

  51. the recipe question is a hard one–i think if you adapt it and develop it it and turn it into something your own it is yours but it is always nice and honest to give kudos and credit to it’s “inventor”.
    and you have…and your photos are delicious as usual aran..

  52. miss shoo says:

    Tantalizing + mouth watering. I absolutely love your blog.

  53. diva says:

    ooo. i might go have a look at tht book myself. i’m too much of a wuss to make pastry but this looks too good to let up. beautiful! x

  54. Astrid says:

    Aran, what I love about your desserts is that they are not just exquisitely beautiful, I actually really really would like to bite into them! Both qualities are not often combined I find.
    (And hello from Valencia by the way! Yes, it’s my annual Spain vacation… I don’t mean to make you envious, but then again, you’re making me drool…)

  55. Anita says:

    I have that book and this was definitely one that caught my eye! So beautifully done!

  56. Katherine says:

    Ok, I hope my comment is not too “old” for this entry, although I hope not many more people read this one because I am about to make them all green with envy. I got to eat this!!! Oh, and it is as perfect as it looks! The tartness of the fresh raspberries, the slight texture of the pistachio, the creaminess, the, the…its all so perfect! Some days I am sad I don’t have the passion for these creations as you do, but when I taste them, I am enveloped in all of the ingredients and WISH I had your talent. BRAVO!

  57. Anonymous says:

    Aran, just a little question please, you advice to divide the jonconde into 2 half sheetpans but what is the dimension of yours?
    thanks a lot
    anis

  58. Aran says:

    Hi Anis-

    In the US, the standard half sheetpan is approximately 17″x13″.

    Thanks for your interest!

  59. Sugar Chef says:

    I also have this book and want to make this particular dessert for a ladies fashion show. I have three strengths of gelatin, gold, silver, and bronze. Throughout this book he uses gelatin but does not specify the strength. Do you have any idea which he uses?

  60. Anonymous says:

    How did you manage to keep the cake so clean along the sides? Is there a technique you would recommend (other than pre-cutting) for applying the bavarian without having it ooze out the sides?

  61. Anonymous- the cake was built in a square mold. The edges are never perfect when you lift out the frame so I always cut for a perfect edge. Have the cake very cold (almost frozen) so when you cut the layers don’t collapse onto each other and use a knife dipped in very hot water. Hope that helps.

  62. ann says:

    gorgeous photos! do you have a recipe for the neutral glaze to share? thanks!

  63. roberta says:

    This cake looks fabulous and I have to do something similar for christmas. Nut they asked me to do 90 portions in italian colours green, white and red. So I was thinking to use this raspberry gelée. It looks to me can be kept in the freezer without damage, am I right?

    Thanks a lot for your help

    Roberta

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