Apple Pate de Fruit, Hazelnuts and Brown Butter

A few varieties of Washington apples are starting to show up in our store, but I really wish I could visit an apple orchard and pick them myself. C’s uncle lives in Wenatchee, Washington where they have beautiful apple and pear orchards that I am dying to visit once again. Last time we flew out to see them, we had such a lovely time that I think it’s time for us to plan a trip soon.

I made some green apple pate de fruit this week to give away as favors but also as filling for hazelnut brown butter cakes. I wish I could describe to you the smell that filled my house after making the brown butter. It is heaven and speaks of autumn.

The brown butter cakes are essentially financiers. I baked some of them with a little bit of the pate de fruit on top. The small apples I used are crab apples in sugar syrup that I brought back from home last time. I am anxious to see what I will this time when I go home. Shopping for food is always on the top of my list of things to do when I go home.

Green Apple Pate de Fruit

560 grams gree apple puree
225 grams unsweetened apple juice
1 cinnamon stick
22 grams yellow pectin
720 grams sugar
112 grams sugar
170 grams glucose
16 grams tartaric acid solution (or lemon juice)
15 grams calvados

Mix the pectin and 720 grams of sugar in a bowl. Make sure the pectin is well mixed with the sugar. Pass through a sieve if necessary. We don’t want clumps of pectin in the pate de fruit.

In a large pot, warm the apple puree, apple juice and the cinnamon stick. When it reaches 42C or a bit warmer than body temperature, add the pectin and the 720 grams of sugar. Bring this to a boil and add the sugar and glucose. Cook this mixture to 106C. Turn the heat off and add the tartaric acid and the calvados. Remove the cinnamon carefully. Pour into a half a sheetpan and let it set for a couple of hours undisturbed so it sets properly. I also poured some pate de fruit into flower shaped and half sphere silicon flexipans. Cut into desired shapes and roll in sugar before serving.

Hazelnut Brown Butter Cakes

120 grams egg whites
125 grams sugar
55 grams flour
25 grams almond flour, toasted
30 grams hazelnut flour, toasted
150 grams brown butter

Toast the almond and hazelnut flours at 325F for about 7 minutes. Let it cool. In the meantime, brown the butter in a medium saucepan. When it starts to turn brown and smells nutty, remove from heat and strain through a fine sieve. Let this cool also.

Mix the egg whites with the sugar. Fold in the flour and toasted nut flours. Whisk. Slowly add the cooled brown butter while whisking. Let this batter sit in the refrigerator overnight.

Pipe the batter into molds and place a small square of apple pate de fruit on top. Bake at 350 for about 15 minutes.

For the financiers with the crab apple on top, pipe the batter into the gold cups and bake for 7 minutes, then place a crab apple on top and bake for another 7 minutes or until golden brown.


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61 Responses to “Apple Pate de Fruit, Hazelnuts and Brown Butter”

  1. Vera says:

    Aran, it’s so beautiful!

  2. Nothing reminds me of autumn like picking sun-warmed apples straight from the orchard trees. Your treats look like a welcome substitute though! Mmmmm!

  3. cindy* says:

    beautiful! these totally speak of autumn.

  4. Christy says:

    Are crab apples those small, cheery-like things? I’ve never seen them before in my life, or maybe I have and thought that they were cherries!! I, too, love the smell of beurre noisette…it’s simply heavenly!! Beautiful work, as always! And what variety are those lovely little flowers you have in your photos?

  5. Anita says:

    Mmm, I love financiers! And putting the pate de fruit in is genius! I especially love your little crabapples, as I have a fondness for all things tiny!

  6. Peabody says:

    As a Washington girl, with and apple orchard about 40 minutes away, I am going apple picking in 2 weeks…good to know you will be jealous of that. ;P
    As usual, everything is stunning. I will be trying the pate de fruit when I get mine. Those look great!

  7. Pero que graciosas las manzanas pequeñitas! Seguro que si, que tu casa tenia que oler más que bien! Que regalo más bonito, seguro le ha encantado a quien lo ha recebido!

  8. Aran says:

    Thanks everyone!

    Christy- I think those little flowers are called baby’s breath? i am not sure… it sounds funny when i say it but I think that’s what they are.

  9. pea & pear says:

    delicious as always… I too am in awe of those gorgeous ‘crab apples’ i have never seen an apple so small and think it is just about the cutest thing I have ever seen!!!
    Ali

  10. Mobula says:

    Abosolutamente maravillosos y deliciosos (esto último me lo imagino porque tienen una pinta…)
    Estoy todavía con la boca abierta y encima lo haces todo en tamaño bocado como a mi me gusta…
    A pesar de la crisis te juro que me busco un billete barato a Florida para que me des unas clases.

    Duda, en la receta de la apple pâte pones dos cantidades de azúcar, es el mismo tipo de azúcar o es diferente???

    Mil besos,

    Ana

    PD: Jon ha empezado el cole??

  11. Aran says:

    Ana-Gracias! Vente, vente! Si el azucar es el mismo pero se anaden a diferentes tiempos por eso los he separado porque si no, es un lio. Y si. Jon ha empezado al cole!

  12. Bridget says:

    Beautiful pictures! I was so excited to see that Honeycrisp apples are starting to make it into the stores here.

  13. Aran says:

    Bridget- Honeycrisps are my all time favorite! … we don’t have them yet but soon!

  14. Hello Aran, I have enjoyed your lovely blog and its stunning photography for a while now. While I have sometimes felt a little intimidated by the recipes – albeit always speechless at the beauty of the pictures – apple pate de fruit is something that I certainly can do!

    So 2 questions for you: do you know which crab apple is was? (such lovely little tartlets, and a cute change from using cherries) There are many cultivars of crab apples out there. Secondly, in the pate de fruit recipe: you use green apples. Do you mean green as in “the skin color of the mature apple” (Granny Smith apple being an example) or do you mean “green” as in “unripe”. I make Green Apple Sorbet using unripe apples so I would like to clarify what you did.

    Thank you
    Sylvie
    http://www.LaughingDuckGardens.com

  15. Aran says:

    Sylvie- Thank you so much Sylvie… don’t feel intimidated by my recipes. They are not difficult, but I do understand that some might be a bit time consuming. If you ever have questions, don’t hesitate to email me though. I love helping out!

    Now to your questions. I don’t know what variety of crabapples they were. I got them already preserved in the syrup and I don’t see anything on the label. For the puree, although the photograph is one of fuji apples, the puree is of granny smiths. I have used both frozen puree and fresh. i get the frozen from a company called Perfect Puree. For the fresh, i cut up the apples small and put them in the vitamix with some lemon juice to stop them from oxidizing.

    I hope this helps!

  16. Abby says:

    These sound amazing. I love financiers, brown butter and apples. Your presentation with the crab apples is dainty and sophisticated. It truly elevates the modest apple.

  17. Esti says:

    a mí me encanta ir a la típica sidrería guipuzcoana y ver las montañas de manzanas sobre el suelo… aunque no me guste la sidra!

  18. Tartelette says:

    Cutest crab apples! They could be white griottines they are so tiny!! Brown butter makes me want to save some and dip my financiers in it when they are baked!! Yum on the combo!! We are going apple picking in upstate SC in a few weeks…drats you will be in Bilbao…oh heck who am I kidding..Bilbao or SC?….duh :)

  19. GORGEOUS! ah..you have made me feel Fall even in this heat—Please come up here to NY and i will take you apple picking! The hazlenut butter financiers are going into my recipe file for sure…thank you!

  20. Amanda says:

    Apples, apples, apples! I just love them all! I can’t wait till I can go out to a local apple farm and pick them for myself. I never did that as a kid and I’m going to make up for lost time now.

  21. veron says:

    I love financiers..I tried making them with hazelnuts before but it did not turn out quite right, I guess it still needs some amount of almonds in it. Looks beautiful, Aran!

  22. Tanya says:

    So pretty. Your desserts are art! I love pate de fruit. Yours look gorgeous!

  23. Anything made with apple is just the best in my books. Beautiful images.

  24. Irene says:

    Brown butter… hazelnuts… apples… oh, I am so there. I used to love crab apples (they were called Adam’s apples where I grew up, I think implying the Garden of Eden, not the part of male anatomy). I haven’t seen them around here much, but I would love to get my hands on them! I don’t think mine would make it as far as pate de fruit, though, so I admire your self-control. :)

  25. amy says:

    aran – all those golden colors just scream autumn to me! you make it all look magical…

    and those little candies? what i wouldn’t give to get my hands on some of those…

  26. Few fruits cook down as well as Apples do, and they take other flavourings so well. Browned Butter and Hazelnuts; incredible!

    I really admire skill like this. You’ve done dessert proud

  27. limonana says:

    oh my oh my. i discovered your blog through amy’s blog, & i think your culinary work is stunning! too tantalizing!!

  28. Oh, this is fabulous. What keeps me happy while the weather turns cool are the apples. I’m giddy with anticipation of their arrival. All the more after this post!

  29. I love that little pate de fruit “swimming pool” on the financiers!
    It becomes irresistible to dive with a spoon on such enormous delight…

    Beautiful!!
    :)

  30. Mrs.French says:

    this is one of your prettiest posts yet…yes you should come out west and pick apples…with me!

  31. Alexa says:

    I try my best to buy only local whenever possible and I was craving apples through a good part of the Summer. Now, the CSA has gorgeous apple that are Washington perfect. I am loving crunching them again…
    Your apple pate de fruit sound delicious. I have to tell you that I’ve never even been tempted to make pate de fruit… Until now. I will be adding that to my list of things to try this month along with those beautiful hazelnut butter cakes. What an enticing post!

  32. Sylvie says:

    Thank you for the answer to my 2 questions, Aran.

    There is actually a company out there that sells just fruit puree? I would never have thought… but then again, I have a lot to learn…

    Your Pate de Pomme poste reminded me that I next want to make quince paste, I just got a peck of quince from an orchard up the road. I love this time of the year.

    Sylvie
    http://www.LaughingDuckGardens.com/ldblog.php/

  33. Bria says:

    Wonderful! All your recipes of pate de fruit really makes me want to give it a try soon.

  34. mimi says:

    i am not looking forward to fall as much as you are, but these are gorgeous! i love the idea of a pate in the middle of the brown butter cakes, i’m sure they tasted amazing!

  35. Nina Timm says:

    I normally stare at my screen when I come here…totally stunned by your talent and creativity!!!

  36. Sylvia says:

    Beautiful and delicate, I’ll never try make pate de fruit, but I love to eat :)
    Your photos are quite amazing !!!

  37. Aran says:

    Thank you everyone!

    Sylvie- frozen fruit purees are actually very popular amongst professional pastry chefs. they provide consistency in the sweetness and texture of the fruit, convenience, good quality… used in ice creams and sorbets, mousses, truffles… and i am so excited for quince, I can’t even tell you. In Spain we make a quince paste that we call membrillo which is usually served with cheese. you will be seeing a lot of that in this blog soon!

  38. I would never have thought of these flavors together, Aran. It’s fantastic!

  39. That’s it, i became addicted to your blog and Tartelette’s..

    ay ..madre mia ! hoy me dije, bueno seria simpatico hacer un post sobre manzanas, el otoño etc..y abro tu blog y mmmm…esta “pâte de fruit” con manzana…Aran, parece divina y tan real!!!

    ps: gracias por tu email. para contestarte vine a Andalucia, con mi ex novio y ex futura suegra. vivia en Paris. era diseñadora (papeleria, tarjetas y albums) y tuve pequeños problemas de salud que desaparecerion una vez que me instalé en Andalusia. Desde luego, me separé del ex novio y me quede aqui. y estoy muy feliz!

  40. ChichaJo says:

    So pretty as usual Aran :) Financiers are on my to-do list!

  41. Jaime says:

    Those are simply marvelous! Once again, you’ve taken my breath away!

  42. great photos as usual and i bet they have great taste.

  43. ana dane says:

    gorgeous photos. i have a favorite financier, with almonds and pears, but now i want to try this hazelnut-apple combination. i can smell it from here…

  44. Marcia says:

    Aam, what a really beautifull blog I found here. Sorry, I don’t speak English well, but I can say I loved the photos and the holly blog.
    Welcome in Ideas.

  45. Elizabeth says:

    What beautiful presentation! I could go for an apple pate de fruit right about now…

  46. The hazelnut financiers are my favorite! I love the smallness of them! By the way…I am coming to florida next month for a cake class at the notter school and thought of you! Any good recommendations or places we must see?

  47. whoa, everything is so beautiful…it makes me want to throw my camera out the window.

  48. Ahh the real deal! I love these when made right (i.e. with pectin instead of gelatin) and these look fabulous!

  49. Y says:

    Pretty! Those apples look like cherries, almost :) And I too love the smell of browning butter and apples cooking!

  50. shiv says:

    oh my; i am definitely going to have to try that pate de fruit.

    also, your photographs are exquisite!

  51. miri says:

    Aran, I love these little gorgeous cakes! They sound (and look) so much YUM!

  52. washington apples are the best – I may be biased.

  53. David L. says:

    I love this site! It engerizes me to cook and make lovely things like only a few do.

    I did try to make the pate de fruit recently and ran into a few problems. Not being educated in candy making, I’m not sure what I did wrong.

    First, some background. I live near Denver and that high-altitude. I’m not sure if that make a difference. I also needed to not use glucose from wheat or corn, so I used brown rice syrup. I’m trying to make something that a friend can have outside her allergies.

    The candy was cooked to 106, or just over a bit. I poured it into a baking sheet and let it sit for a few hours. After that it still seemed very much like stiffer jam, really thick jam. It didn’t keep any kind of form to it.

    Also, did you line the pan with anything? Maybe it’s just my batch, but it also would not “remove” itself from the pan at all.

    Thanks.

  54. Aran says:

    Hi David- First of all, let me tell you I lived in Denver for 3 years and I know exactly what you mean about the altitude. It does play a role in the whole baking process. But how I miss it! Lucky you!

    The problem you have is not uncommon and it has to do with two things mostly. Ingredients you used and temperature you cooked the pate de fruit to. Assuming your thermometer was calibrated and that you did cook it to 106 degrees Celsius, my next question would be, what kind of pectin you used. For this recipe, it must be yellow pectin or it will not work. I used apple pectin before by mistake and it just doesn’t thicken the same. So what kind of pectin did you use?

    Second, the brown rice syrup might play a role but I don’t think that was the issue.

    Also, what kind of apple puree did you use?

    Thanks!

  55. David L. says:

    Yes, it is quite nice here (I am actually in the Springs), but I do miss the ocean.

    I used the only pectin I could find…from the jarring section. It was just labeled “pectin”. I didn’t know there was a difference with “yellow pectin”…silly me thought it was just color.

    I have a digital thermometer and it read 106. But it took..oh…15 minutes to go from 95 to 106.

    I made the apple puree myself. Apples with just a bit of water, gala apples I believe. The puree was very much like applesauce, maybe a bit thicker.

    Thank you so much for responding!

  56. Aran says:

    Hi David- Oh, I have a ot of friends in the Springs! I was an exchange student there when I was in my teens. We were just there not long ago.

    So i think the problem is definitely the pectin. Yes, there is a huge difference between pectins and the one you find at the store is good for making jams but for pate de fruit you definitely need something more potent.

    I get mine from here.. http://www.lepicerie.com/customer/product.php?productid=707200&cat=0&page=3

    Making your own fruit puree definitely has a different texture than using frozen puree with 10% sugar in it (most professional kitchen use that and I did too for this one), but it should work just the same. But make sure you use yellow pectin.

    Thanks and good luck!

  57. David L. says:

    Thank you! I’ll get the pectin. And I’ll add a wee bit of sugar to the apple puree.

    Thank you so much!

    And yes, to see Pikes Peak every morning on my commute to work is amazing.

    Cheers!

  58. Anonymous says:

    Aran, I am looking around for a pate de fruit recipe and am so glad to have run across yours – the photos are amazing, and your pate de fruit is exactly what I’m looking for. Any chance you have the conversion of this recipe into cups or teaspoon/tablespoon measurements??
    Thank you SOO much!!

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